24 Feb Monferace Association: the nobility of Grignolino
When producers work in synergy driven by passion and with the common goal of seeking the purest essence in tradition, at that moment the foundations for an ambitious project are created, so from the union of a group of courageous winemakers the Monferace association was born in 2013, the ancient name of the Aleramic Monferrato.
A project that is realized in that territory identified in the geographical area delimited by the Po and Tanaro rivers, a land rich in history and culture, vineyards and natural beauty, which extends in an ideal triangle between the cities of Casale Monferrato, Alessandria and Asti.
Monferrato is characterized by an extraordinary wealth of crops and landscapes, it is a unique heritage of biodiversity to be safeguarded, but above all it has always been an area suited to the cultivation of vines with numerous varieties of native vines: Grignolino, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Freisa, Ruché, Cortese and ancient varieties that are being rediscovered such as Slarina and Baratuciat. The main purpose of the association is to ennoble Grignolino, the objectives are the communication and dissemination of Monferace and the creation of an entrepreneurial network in Monferrato that allows for its relaunch.
Of these hills, Grignolino is a native vine with very ancient roots, it is mentioned in documents dating back to the years 1249 and 1337. The first is a rental deed transcribed by the monks of the Capitello di Sant’Evasio “four bushels of filthy earth so that they could be worked and good Berbesine vine plants could be placed there” and the second is an inventory of the Abbey of San Giusto di Susa, in which the wine “Grignolerii” is mentioned.
In recent decades, Grignolino has often been identified as a table wine, partly released on the bulk market, but in the past it was a royal wine much loved by the Savoy and had its moments of peak, such as at the 1953 National Wine Competition where it was awarded in the category of “superior fine reds” sharing the podium with Barolo and Barbaresco. Monferace aims to recreate this magic by sewing an elegant evening dress through strict regulations, a severe specification: first of all Monferace must be produced from pure Grignolino grapes, the registered vineyards must be planted on calcareous-silty-clayey soils in various combinations also with the natural presence of sandy sediments, the wine can be placed on the market only after a minimum aging period of 40 months of which at least 24 in wooden barrels, finally every year a commission tastes the wines blindly to evaluate their characteristics and suitability.
This challenge is made even more fascinating because Grignolino is not an easy-to-manage vine, it is a rebellious spirit, Veronelli defined it as “anarchic and headstrong”, a wine in perpetual contrast between almost aggressive acidity and tannin on one side and pale color and harmless appearance on the other. The name should derive from grignole, a dialect term from Asti that in ancient times indicated the grape seeds, which in this variety are more numerous than in other vines and are responsible for its marked tannicity; there is also a second version, that the name would be linked to the expression grigné, in Piedmontese to smile, because the expression that appears on the face of those who drink it due to tannins would resemble a smile. Thus, the winemaking philosophy is also inspired by the past: it is necessary to wait patiently for many years and a passage in barrels before this vine expresses its nobility and elegance at its best.
In the company of the President of the Monferace association, the lawyer Guido Carlo Alleva, and the oenologist Mario Ronco, we tasted ten labels from as many companies supporting the project.
Monferace 2019 – Liedholm
Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese Doc – Gr. 14.5%
Nils Liedholm, a beloved character nicknamed the Baron for his elegance, purchased the Villa Boemia estate in Cuccaro Monferrato in 1973, but the winemaking activity began in 1977. The Liedholm company was managed until 2015 by Nils’ son, Carlo Liedholm, who recently sold the company to an Italian industrial group active in the vertical transport sector. The estate occupies the most south-eastern part within the Monferace association, in the municipality of Lu Monferrato.
The vine is located in the lowest hilly area of the group at 210 m above sea level, the soil meets the standards imposed by the regulations but has the characteristic of having a high percentage of sand. Fermentation is carried out at a controlled temperature with a submerged cap, followed by 30 months in wood.
The visual aspect is typical of Grignolino. The nose is more delicate with floral notes, geranium and violet, a soft spiciness of white pepper, tobacco leaves and a crunchy cherry. Freshness and flavor prevail on the palate, followed by tannicity with a pseudo-caloric return to soften and balance the palate, an elegant and almondy finish.
Taken from Bibenda on 01/24/25. Full article at this address:
https://www.bibenda.it/news_bibenda_singola.php?id=5667