24 Feb Monferace, voice of lost times
An association of producers is committed to promoting the aged version of this historic Piedmontese grape variety, which requires at least 40 months of aging (24 in wood). Genetics, spectrometry, diffusion, organoleptic analysis: the talking points of the meeting.
They made its DNA, researchers from Crea in Asti performed the spectrometry, a panel of 60 people traced its organoleptic profile and Professor Anna Schneider from the CNR – Institute for Sustainable Plant Protection in Turin highlighted its historical origins. We are talking about Monferace, the protagonist of a conference last October 2 at the Castello di Ponzano, in the Alessandria area.
Between poetry and lineage
And yet, all this is still not enough to describe the emotions of Monferace, “the woman with the hoarse voice” of Cesare Pavese’s Monferrato. One of his poems says: “suddenly it sounded/ as if it were coming out of these hills, a voice clearer/ and harsher at the same time, a voice of lost times”. Here it is, the aged Grignolino, a voice of lost times. Harsher and clearer than Nebbiolo. They also called it Barbesino, it has a network of relationships with the vines of the northwest of the Peninsula, but it is a native Piedmontese variety. It is the grandson of Nebbiolo, an ascendant of Ruché and a descendant of Freisa and Vespolina.
Origin and diffusion
As Grignolino it is mentioned even before Nebbiolo, dating back to 1249, although as Professor Anna Schneider of the Cnr explained, the “uncle” was already widespread throughout the region. It spread from Casalese and was said to resemble Nebbiolo since 1800. Its production today is mostly focused on a pale wine, fresh, fruity, fragrant, tannic to pair with food because of the grignole, the grape seeds of which are always abundant. But this is only part of the story.
The realization of a dream
Then there is Monferace, which is the best selection of Grignolino aged for at least 40 months, 24 of which in wood. 4.23 hectares are dedicated to it, of which 18% represent selections of the best grapes, 45.5% single vineyards and 36.4% unique parcels. Between 20 and 30 thousand bottles are produced per year. Still too few. It is a niche, it does not want and cannot be anything different such excellence. But it also needs to make its voice heard on the market. Monferace is a dream come true, it is not a denomination. It was born from an association of Grignolino producers to rediscover an ancient tradition as recalled by the president of Monferace Guido Carlo Alleva, owner of Tenuta Santa Caterina.
The producers of the Monferace association
DNA analysis
A dream that was scientifically “psychoanalyzed” last October 2nd, highlighting its DNA, spectrometry and aromatic profile. But now it is necessary to share it, live it, taste it, get its pinch of spiciness and acidity. The analyses revealed that it contains rotundone, the molecule (sesquiterpene) responsible for the peppery scent that it shares with some of its cousins such as Pelaverga, but also with Corvina or Syrah. It is as if it were the color of the eyes, to which we must add the rose and violet of the hair, raspberry, redcurrant and cherry of the complexion, resinousness and balsamic of the body.
The taste-olfactory profile
Monferace is more fickle on the nose, explained Maurizio Petrozziello, a researcher at Crea in Asti, in technical terms. «Refinement greatly broadens intensity and complexity, the character of the aromas differs based on the hand of the producer and the management in the cellar. On the other hand, there is less variability on the taste, being characterized by acidity and astringency». If we really wanted to use numbers, we should, glass in hand, emphasize the acidity, almost always about one point above Nebbiolo, and the pH, with numbers low enough to let winemakers sleep more soundly than certain modern vintages on the great Italian reds. At times it seems like tasting certain Barolos from fifty years ago as well as the great Grignolinos of today.
Complexity and reduced volumes
A tasting so far from the common taste stereotype that in a recent international wine competition the Monferace tasted blind, but obviously reported as Grignolino, was not understood due to too much complexity, as the writer can testify. There is still too little of it and it is not only a market problem but also a technical one. Mario Ronco, Piedmontese winemaker and reference for the producers’ association, explained it well. For those 24 months in wood, most producers – with the exception of Tenuta Santa Caterina – use tonneaux not for stylistic reasons but for quantity reasons. The large barrel benefits them instead. From the 11 samples tasted, an assertive, proud, noble and elegant character emerged.
Author’s interpretations
Monferace like that of Alemat are fermented with indigenous yeasts, aged 30 months and expressive of deep minerality together with the grace of cinnamon, violet, blood orange soaked in resolute tannins. There are some escapes forward, more modern, rare in truth. Then there are postmodern versions of rare elegance, like that of Tenuta Santa Caterina, a Grignolino that becomes Monferace from the grapes of a single vineyard, macerated for 90 days and aged 30 months in large wood.
A profile so graceful that the director of Civiltà del bere Alessandro Torcoli, leading the tasting, described it with notes even of “strawberry with cream” for that character of fine red fruits of the wine, with that certain earthiness of Pinot Noir. Finally the more intellectual interpretations like that of Accornero, a historic producer. Hers is a traditional and austere Monferace, with a red fruit reminiscent of pomegranate and a minty minerality in the finish. It is fermented in wood, thank goodness, with a 60-day maceration from grapes from 60-year-old vines. Here is the woman with Pavese’s hoarse voice who sounded clearer
Taken from Civilità del bere of 10/18/23:
https://www.civiltadelbere.com/monferace-a-ponzano-un-convegno-fa-il-punto-sul-grignolino-che-sfida-il-tempo/